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Today V and returned by bus to Taiwan’s north coast. We spent an afternoon in the former gold mining towns of Jiufen and Jinguashi. (Jiufen was originally established by nine families, hence its name, which more or less signifies nine parts). Northern Taiwan experienced its gold rush later than did the US, Australia and New Zealand with their celebrated mid-19th century ones. According to Richard Saunders’ exemplary Taipei Day Trips II, the first payable gold was found in a creek near Jiufen in 1885. The nothern Taiwanese rush then followed the usual trajectory, first transforming sleepy country village into boom towns, then as gold ran out sending them into a decline only reversed once the extraordinary heritage–and tourism potential–of the area was discovered.  I commented to V that one good reason to visit these towns on a weekend was that the crowds gave visitors the idea of how busy the towns must have been in their bustling heyday.

Some aspects of the story of the two gold towns is sombre. Mining the world over, even today, is grimy, arduous and dangerous. During WWII the Japanese used prisoners of war to mine gold and various strategic minerals to support their war effort. This troubled history has left behind some beautiful relicts, however. In Jiuguashi, the exquisitely designed and positioned Crown Prince Chalet, made to resemble a royal residence in Japan, was faithfully prepared for a visit of Crown Prince Hirohito–who never after all came to visit the town.

A view of Taiwan's north coast from Jiufen

Perhaps the most exhilarating moment of our day’s travel, though, came when we followed a pathway  in Jiufen out into the open air, far from the tourist hubub of Jishan Street. We took in the vista of the sea from Songde Park, which had a miners’ memorial. A sea breeze was driving shreds of mist inland, and there was a hint of rain.

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